Sport Climbing Combined at the Olympics: An Informative Overview

Introduction

Sport climbing, once considered a niche outdoor activity, has grown into a globally recognized sport. Its debut in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics marked a significant milestone, introducing millions to the athleticism, technique, and mental strength required for competition climbing. The Olympic event was held in a unique format known as the Sport Climbing Combined, which brought together three distinct climbing disciplines: speed climbing, bouldering, and lead climbing. This article explores the combined format, its structure, significance, and how it has evolved since its first Olympic appearance.

What Is Sport Climbing?

Sport climbing is a type of rock climbing that takes place on artificial walls fitted with holds. It is divided into three main disciplines:

Speed Climbing — Two climbers race up a standardized 15-meter wall as fast as possible.

Bouldering — Climbers solve short, complex climbing problems on a 4.5-meter-high wall without ropes.

Lead Climbing — Climbers attempt to reach the highest point on a wall over 15 meters within a set time using a safety rope.

The Combined Format: Tokyo 2020

In the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games, sport climbing was introduced with a combined format, meaning all athletes had to compete in all three disciplines. This was primarily due to the limited number of athlete slots provided by the International Olympic Committee (IOC).

How It Worked:

• Each athlete participated in speed, bouldering, and lead climbing.
• Athletes were ranked in each discipline based on their performance.
• The final score was calculated by multiplying the ranks across all three disciplines.
• For example: A 2nd place in speed, 3rd in bouldering, and 1st in lead would equal 2 × 3 × 1 = 6.
• The athlete with the lowest combined score won the event.

Medal Winners — Tokyo 2020:

• Men’s Gold: Alberto Ginés López (Spain)
• Women’s Gold: Janja Garnbret (Slovenia)

The format favored well-rounded climbers who could adapt across all three styles, though many specialists found it challenging due to the unique demands of each event.

Why Was the Combined Format Chosen?

The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) had to showcase the sport within tight constraints. Only 40 athletes (20 men and 20 women) were allowed to compete. Instead of choosing just one discipline, the combined format was designed to highlight the diversity and skill range of the sport. While effective in showing off the sport’s versatility, the format received criticism from athletes and fans alike, particularly because speed climbing is very different in style and training from the other two.

Evolution of the Format: Paris 2024

The upcoming Paris 2024 Olympics will feature a revised competition structure, addressing many concerns raised during the Tokyo Games.

Key Changes:

• The competition is now split into two separate medal events:
• Speed Climbing
• Boulder & Lead Combined

This means:

Speed climbers can focus solely on their specialty.

Boulderers and lead climbers (who share more similar skill sets) compete in a combined event.

New Scoring System:

For the Boulder & Lead Combined:

Points are awarded based on performance (number of tops, zones, time, and height).

Scores from both events are added, not multiplied.

This format is seen as fairer and easier for viewers to understand.

The Sport’s Global Growth

Sport climbing has surged in popularity since its Olympic debut:

Climbing gyms are expanding rapidly around the world.

Youth participation is rising, with junior competitions gaining traction.

Climbing is now part of school and university sports programs in several countries.

Its appeal lies in a mix of physical challenge, problem-solving, and personal achievement, making it attractive to a wide demographic.

Looking Ahead: Los Angeles 2028 and Beyond

The success of sport climbing at the Olympics paves the way for its continued inclusion:

Athletes and the IFSC hope for further discipline separation and possibly three individual medals for speed, boulder, and lead.

More countries are investing in training programs and climbing infrastructure.

The IOC has praised sport climbing for aligning with Olympic values such as determination, excellence, and innovation.

Conclusion

Sport Climbing Combined at the Olympics introduced the world to the versatility and athleticism of climbing. While the original format at Tokyo 2020 faced criticism, it successfully showcased the sport’s potential on a global stage. The revised structure for Paris 2024 reflects the sport’s evolution and commitment to fairness, athlete specialization, and viewer enjoyment.

As sport climbing continues to gain momentum, it is poised to become a permanent and thrilling fixture in the Olympic Games. Whether you’re a seasoned climber or a new fan, the Olympic climbing format offers an exciting blend of speed, skill, and strategy — a true test of the human spirit and athletic capability.